If you’re a hairstylist looking to master blonde highlights on brown hair, this technique will be your new go-to—especially for clients with previously colored or stubborn dark hair.
In this post, I’m walking you through a real client transformation using a vertical foil placement technique to create cool-toned brunette highlights with just the right hint of brightness.
Want to watch the full transformation?
Click here to watch the YouTube tutorial where I show you step-by-step how I approached this challenging but rewarding project.
The Client Challenge: Brown Hair with Faded Black Dye
My client arrived with a true color correction situation:
- Half virgin brown hair,
- Half faded box black dye from a previous service.
If you’ve ever lifted box dye, you know the struggle—uneven lift, unpredictable tones, and stubborn bands. That’s why I used a strategic vertical foil placement to carefully control the lift and placement of lightener while minimizing overlap and damage.
This approach helps create dimension while avoiding harsh lines or chunkiness—perfect for anyone wanting blonde highlights on dark brown hair with a soft, seamless blend.
Vertical Foil Placement: Why It Works on Brown Hair
Vertical foil placement is an underrated gem for dark-haired clients because:
- It creates elongated ribbons of light that flow naturally with the hair.
- You get high contrast results without sacrificing softness.
- It allows for better control in areas of uneven porosity—especially critical when working with previous dye.
I used my favorite Framar foils because they grip well and stay put—super helpful when working with coarse, heavy hair that tends to fight you during foiling.
Are you a neat foiler or a messy one?
For this project, I had to stay precise, and the Framar foils helped me keep everything clean and controlled.
The Toner That Made It All Work: Kenra Color Demi Blue/Green Rapid Toner
Let’s talk about toning. When lifting dark brown or black hair, you’ll likely run into warm underlying pigments—red, orange, or brassy tones that need neutralizing.
To tone my client’s orange/red highlights, I used:
✨ Kenra Color Demi Blue/Green Rapid Toner
- Designed for levels 4–6, not your typical blonde toner.
- Processes in 5 minutes or less.
- I got the perfect cool tone in just 3 minutes.
It’s ideal for cool brunette highlights, especially when working on previously dyed dark hair. The blue-green base neutralizes unwanted warmth without over-toning or muddying the hair.
Watch the Full Tutorial on YouTube
Final Thoughts: Blonde Highlights on Brown Hair Done Right
Whether your client wants a bold transformation or subtle dimension, blonde highlights on brown hair can be achieved with precision and confidence using the right tools, placement, and toner.
Techniques to remember:
- Use vertical foils for a natural grow-out and ribbon-like brightness.
- Choose a toner suited for deeper levels like Kenra Blue/Green Rapid.
- Always work with intention—especially on compromised or previously colored hair.
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