In this video, I share my best sectioning for highlights & tips for addressing spottiness and bands for this color correction on blonde hair!
Do you ever have a foiling technique that is so tried and true that it’s just your go-to? Well, I do! In this video, I share my best sectioning for highlights & tips for addressing spottiness and bands for this color correction on blonde hair!
The Process
The first step with any color correction is a Malibu treatment. Whether that be Malibu Crystal Gel or a Malibu CPR, it is imperative to get rid of any build up on the hair that can react with lightener. Especially on a new guest.
After letting that process for the desired amount of time, I sectioned her off in 6 sections in the back and 3 in the front for maximum control. With a client that wants to be super blonde, getting the hairline is super important. When they pull their hair up, it will be the first thing that they see. When they pull their hair forward, it will help make them feel bright underneath. Do not skip the hairline!
Starting with Blue powder lightener and 20 vol, I take super fine sections, making sure I get all of the baby hairs in the process of lightening the hairline. A fun pro tip I have for babylights around the hairline is to flip the foil up because it allows you to get super close to the hairline. See the video for a visual demonstration.
Once the hairline is all done, I take superfine baby lights in my second zone, making sure it is very random. It is imperative to not overlap the lightener on the previously lighted hair so we don’t further damage her hair. Another Pro-tip is to take conditioner and saturate it over the previously lightened hair for protection.
When weaving, I try to make it random and different so it blends out super well. You can mix it up with finer babylights, traditional highlights, chunky weaves, or whatever you see fit. You can even use a Framar weaving comb to help you foil a bit faster on some sections!
CLICK HERE TO SHOP FRAMAR
Throughout the back, I am doing all diagonal sections for the maximum blend. This type of sectioning is perfect for a natural grow-out, as well as clients that have layers. If you want to see a video where I did 4 different placements and the effects they create, click here!
Once we get to the top, it is clear that I need to start taking slices. She wants to be super blonde, so I started to go in with micro slices for maximum brightness. With slices, you need to make sure that they are really fine sections, if not see through. This is to ensure full saturation and even lift.
I am a slow foiler, so to help myself and make sure that everything processes at the same time I am starting to apply the 8NuA on the midsections where there is warmth. The reason I chose 8NuA is that the underlying pigment is blue. She had inches of orange, so to neutralize the warmth at the same level, I went in with the 8NuA.
What’s nice about Kenra color is that it is a calibrated color line. According to the Kenra professional website, the Natural Ultra Ash series is, “Calibrated at each level with a blend of violet, blue and green tones for maximum warmth control while providing full gray coverage”. Next time you have a client with warm hair, think about correcting it with a Nua instead of going in with bleach and creating further damage.
The Front Sections
On the sides in the front, I wanted to create maximum brightness. In this case, it means horizontal sections. In the back I wanted to blend, now I want brightness. Click here to watch 4 foil placements and the effects they create.
Around her face, as you can see in the video, it was very short and broken. I have to take my time and take small sections to ensure that I do not break anymore. This is a great time that your conditioner will come into play, because you can help protect the previously lightened hair with it.
We opted for a brighter money piece, so I took back-to-back sections with no hair left in between my weaves. If you want a more subtle money piece, you can leave some space in between. If you want a bolder money piece take slices.
Using SSE for Base Break
Studio Stylist express is an amazing hair color system that works in 10 minutes or less. Not only is it 100% gray coverage, but it is also amazing for lifting and controlling warmth when doing a base break. A base break is when you take permanent color and shift it 1-2 levels lighter than its natural color. It is perfect for creating a root smudge with no harsh line of demarcation.
Another great thing about the Studio Stylist Express is that you are able to tone with it at the same time. I used 8NuA on her mid shafts and I blended that right into 10A on her ends. The ash series was perfect for controlling warmth for a beautiful end result.
What is a Crystal gel treatment?
As mentioned, I used the Malibu crystal gel treatment to get rid of any build-up in their hair before we put a lightener on it. The Malibu crystal gel treatment is designed to remove mineral, medicinal, and other buildup to ensure the color properly deposits. It also speeds up the processing time.
It also helps remove minerals and discoloration from environmental build-up. This is why using Malibu treatments for color corrections is great because it is a gentle alternative to bleach. Getting rid of the dirt and debris to have a clean canvas is the perfect way to ensure the best possible outcome.
Different types of Malibu treatments for color corrections!
Malibu CPR – CPR is designed to remove unwanted pigments from oxidized hair color. It is nice because it gets rid of up to 3 levels of color, but it doesn’t lift the hair. This would have also been a great option for my client.
Malibu DDL XL – If you are looking for something more heavy-duty, use this! You mix it with the developer, so it CAN shift the natural hair color. According to the Malibu website, “This innovative new product removes unwanted direct dyes and is ideal for special effects, giving you the ability to easily take off color without the unexpected. Perfect for the client who likes to change their color often”.
Malibu Blonde – If your client’s blonde is just feeling dull, use this instead of lightener! It helps restore vibrance and removes discoloration. It also has conditioning agents in the formula to help create shine and moisture!
Formula
Blue Powder Lightener with 20 and 30 vol
FInal Colormelt: SSE 7N/7A into Demi 8NUA/10A
Do you ever see a canvas and you’re just like ugh, I want to make you so blonde! And then you do a beautiful teasylight, check her foils and you see bright PINK? Cuz that’s what happened to me! In this color correction from pink to blonde, watch how I take my client’s red box dyed hair to a beautiful blonde using all Kenra Color!
