Learn how to fill hair and watch how I take over compromised hair from blonde to copper red.
You might think taking blonde hair to a darker shade like copper or red will be easy, but there are usually important steps that need to be taken to ensure you get an even, lasting color. Filling is a crucial step that’s usually skipped and I’m here to guide you on exactly how to do it!
What is filling?
Filling is replacing the natural underlying pigment of red, copper, and gold that was lost during the lifting phase. You can replace these pigments with color and are neccessary when going 2 levels or more darker. Since we are going from blonde to copper red, choosing a fill formula is easy.
What happens if you don’t use a filler on blonde hair?
1. Your color can look hollow.
2. The color washes out fast!
3. It can look muddy
4. You’re dealing with porosity issues so it can also look blotchy!
For this model, I took her over-processed, bleached hair, and filled her hair with Demi-Permanent. Demi is ammonia-free and this is the BEST option when dealing with compromised hair.
How to choose a fill formula
Rule of thumb when filling is only need to do it if you are going 2 levels or more darker. This model has level 9/10 ends and her desired end result is that of an ombre’ look going from a level 6 to a 7ish. I usually suggest using a color one level above the desired end result. In this case I took her level 9 blonde hair and filled it with a level 8. This is one level above the desired level 7. Further more, I knew she wanted a warm copper shade, so my primary color choice was gold and copper since that is the primary underlying pigment at that level.
Fill Formula using Kenra Color Demi
8G/8C 1:2 9vol
Once her fill formula was complete, I shampooed and 100% dried her hair to put on the final color.
Kenra Color
Studio Stylist Express 6CR 1:1 20vol into Demi 7CG 1:2 9vol
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Check out my other blog on HOW TO FILL HAIR HERE!