In this video tutorial, I am going to show you how I did this orange to blonde hair transformation using a platinum card technique!
I have been doing my client’s hair for years, and she always lifts super warm and brassy. Today, we wanted something a little more on the cool side, so we did an orange to blonde hair transformation! Level 1 hair is super tricky to get light, but with the use of blue powder lightener, a platinum card technique, and NuA’s, there’s nothing we can’t do!
Chop it like its Hot
I wanted to start this transformation by cutting off a lot of the dead ends. We did a thorough consultation beforehand, and we both decided it was best to give her a long bob. Although your client may want to keep their hair long, it doesn’t always mean it’s healthy. It is important to discuss the health of your client’s hair before you put lightener on it, and although I am super careful when applying bleach, I know that her hair would have been compromised.
Luckily, she was willing to lose a bit of length, but overall I would let your clients know you can only make them as blonde as their hair can take. Therefore, the more hair they are willing to cut off, the blonder you can get them that day! In a Rebel Femme Podcast episode, my co-host Yadira and I talked about how often you should get your hair trimmed!
We suggest for short hair, every 4-6 weeks max because the cut can lose its shape very fast and it may get uncomfortable.
For medium-length hair (shoulder length), we suggest every 8 weeks for a trim, and for long hair, every 12 weeks for a trim or dusting. It is important to recognize the difference between trims and dusting.
A trim is a full haircut, to shape and refresh your hair. A dusting is to just get rid of the dead ends, no shaping is involved. Maintenance haircuts are very important so you are constantly happy with your hair.
Click Here to listen to Rebel Femme Podcast!
The process
After the initial cut, I went in with Blue Powder Lightener and Olaplex for maximum lift. I normally go in with Beyond Bond, but because her hair is so dark Blue Powder is the way to go. I then took fine sections and a platinum card hair technique to ensure her level 1 hair gets as light as possible. My power painter from Framar makes it super easy to apply the lightener, as well as Framar foils and LOTS of tension for a beautiful transition.
After applying the lightener, I used a heat lamp because it was very cold in my salon that day. When working with heat, you want to keep an eye on your foils because it tends to speed up the process. I check my foils by simply using my finger to wipe some product away!
She lifted to a warm level 8, so I used Kenra Professional 8NuA, 4NuA, and 10A to help kill that warmth. Like I said, I know her hair is going to be super warm. To make sure her hair would fully absorb the color, I made sure her hair was 100% dry after shampooing. I then applied 4NuA right on into 8NuA and finished off with 10A on the ends. It made for a seamless colormelt!
Process at room temperature for 20 minutes for best results.
Tips for platinum card techniques
Although the Power Painter does an amazing job of blending, you always want to keep in mind to use a light hand when feathering up top. However, towards the mids and ends, you want to really push the lightener in the section so there are no cheetah spots from uneven application. You can even use your hands or a comb to brush it through!
I always find it best when doing a platinum card technique to take extremely fine sections, especially if they want to be super blonde. Similar to highlighting, your sections should be fine enough to where you can read something through it. If they are any thicker, you will have an uneven lift. The finer the section, the faster and more even it will process.
Always take into consideration the state of the hair. If your client’s ends are too compromised, do not overlap. You can apply conditioner at the ends for a barrier on the danger zones. It is important to be careful around the areas that are more fragile as well, such as the hairline.
Why I like NuA’s for Orange Hair
Let’s throw it back to color theory! My client’s hair is super warm, and she always lifts orange. So what do you put on orange to neutralize it? Blue!
Kenra Color is a calibrated color line, therefore I know when I throw the NuA’s on her hair it will react well. A calibrated color line means that at each level has the appropriate amount of neutralization to control that level. Because a level 4- 7 is going to have a lot of warmth, there will be a lot of blue within that specific 4NuA – 6NuA toner. Once the hair lifts past the orange stage, it will turn into less of a blue base and more of a violet base to combat the gold. NuA stands for Natural Ultra Ash. The Ultra as just gives a little extra Pow to the formula, really ensuring there will be no warmth at the end of the look.
In the swatch book, it may even look grey! It is a great and safe way to tone out the orange without having to further lift the hair to a higher level. I did not want to over process her mids and ends by leaving on the lightener any further and I knew the NuA’s would do a perfect job in toning out the warmth.
Benefits of Olaplex in your formula
Let’s be real. If you’re not using Beyond Bond or another lightener with a bond builder in it, there is a risk of the hair becoming fragile. To prevent this, added Olaplex to the lightener. Olaplex is a fabulous way to not only ensure the health of your client’s hair but to create an add-on service for you!
I feel like Olaplex really helps me with transforming my clients because it truly rebonds the hair. It penetrates through the cuticle to give my clients healthy hair. Olaplex is perfect to add to your lightener when blonding or color correcting. It is definitely a must when it comes to chemical services.
Plus, you can educate your clients about what at-home Olaplex products would be best for them, and you can send them home with it! It is a great way to make a little extra cash for you.
Formula:
Blue Powder Lightener 20vol with Olaplex
Demi 4NUA 1:2 9vol
8NUA 1:2 9 vol
10A 1:2 9 vol
Do you like Podcasts?
In this podcast for hairstylists and small business owners, I show you how to write the best marketing social media bio to attract your dream clients!
Your bio is one of the most misused tools out there. It is a great way to simplify who you are and what you’re all about! First impressions are everything, and I’m going to share some mistakes people make for your marketing social media bio. Heck, I’ve even made some mistakes myself. And sometimes I need to check up on my own bio to make sure I’m giving the right message when you come to my feed.
Click Here to read more about 5 Mistakes you’re making in your Instagram Bio!
