In this video tutorial, watch how I created this gray hair highlight transformation using only 16 foils using all Kenra Color!!
This video tutorial shares how I took my client’s grown-out babylight into a cooler silver shade using only 16 foils! This is an easy way to blend in natural gray hair and transform it into a cool end result for less maintenance.
The Process
Most of the time, to transition gray hair, you may have to do a combination of highlights and lowlights. However, in this case, just 16 foils of highlights did the trick! I felt that it was best to go in with a mix of highlights and babylights to give it the most seamless look. I started around her hairline and worked my way up in a diagonal back placement. It is not necessary to do back to back babylights, since we really want to have a low maintenance look. I did about a quarter inch subsection in between each foil.
A couple tips when creating super light babylights, the thinner the weave, the more even lift and the brighter the end result will be. You want to be able to read something through your section, so if you can’t, you need to re-weave your section. It has to be super fine.
I always love to use Framar foils and tools because I can create that easy workspace. Click here to shop for my faves!
You really want to keep in mind the different placements when foiling. Diagonal back is the most dimensional and seamless, and it creates a beautiful ribbon effect. It also is the easiest growout. As I got closer to the top, I wanted to follow the shape of her head for more brightness. I started pivoting her sections about halfway up, and it ended up almost horizontal at the top of her head.
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When going gray, you have to keep in mind that you want the highlights to pull as light as you can possibly get them. You must wait until they are a level 9 or 10 before you pull them. If you pull them too early, it will result in a brassy fade out and it will be harder for you to correct in the future. The goal is for them to be as light and as bright as possible.
I opted for Blue Powder Lightener for that “POW” factor because it always gets my highlights super bright. It also has a slight toning factor in the lightener so it’s perfect for gray hair transitioning.
At the bowl I used a purple shampoo to help pretone the hair. For my final glaze formula, I used 9VM and 10SM at a 1:1 mixing ratio for a sheer tone end result.
Blue vs Purple shampoo
If your client wants a cooler end result, I always like to prep the hair before toner with a blue or purple shampoo. In this case, my client’s hair lifted to a level 10, meaning it has yellow undertones. If your client has yellow undertones, you need to wash them with a purple shampoo to help combat the yellow. So, if you use a blue shampoo, it won’t neutralize it as much.
If your client lifts to a level 7 and below, you should use a blue shampoo. The blue will help combat the orange tones and it will break the brass. Leave the blue shampoo on for at least 5 minutes before toning. If blue shampoo doesn’t bust the brass, I would recommend any of the NuA’s as a toner.
Think of it this way: purple for blondes, blue for brunettes.
Why should you pretone?
Pretoning is a great way for you to get the desired end result without having to leave the toner on for 20 minutes. Essentially, it jump starts the neutralization process. While you are mixing your final glaze formula, have a Rapid Toner on hand to bust some of the brass out. My favorites are SV and VP rapid toners. It is also considered an add-on service if you are using color, so don’t be afraid to add a density charge.
Pretone also is essential if you are doing a vivid color. For example, if your client wants bright blue hair, but you don’t pretone and put blue on top of the bright yellow. Surprise! Your client now has green hair. Don’t cut a corner and save yourself the color correction in the end. Keep in mind the color wheel when you formulate!
You can also pretone with purple or blue shampoo. Leave on for at least 5 minutes for best results.
Best maintenance products for gray hair!
Let them know that once their toner fades, they will be left with a warm end result. If they want the gray, they should be maintaining their hair with a purple shampoo or conditioner. My favorites are Moroccanoil Blonde Perfecting Shampoo and Color Depositing Conditioner in Platinum. Both are available on Rebel Femme Shop. I also love Kenra Professional Brightening treatment as well.
Usually, gray hair is a bit coarser, so I love torecommendt Olaplex No. 6 which is a Bond Smoother to help eliminate frizz. I also think that Moroccanoil Smoothing Shampoo and Conditioner is a great way to help keep the hair sleek and shiny.
Have your client return every 6-8 weeks for Glaze treatments to keep up the silvery look.
SHOP MY FAVORITE MAINTENANCE PRODUCTS FOR GRAY HAIR!
Formula:
Blue Powder Lightener 1:2 20Vol
Demi 9VM and 10SM 1:1 9Vol
Watch more gray blending hair tutorials here!
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