Learn how to create face framing highlights for dark hair with this money piece hair tutorial.
Face framing highlights on dark hair is probably one of my favorite things to do, mostly because of the versatility and high contrast that comes with it. It’s so satisfying and rewarding to see it lift to an even 9, providing the best canvas to do, really anything to that money piece highlight.
I decided to keep this model on the natural side. She specifically asked for bold face framing highlights for her dark hair, but still wanted a natural looking end result. Bold, but natural. Got it! Sounded like a challenge, just a little.
Money Piece Foil Placement
My model wears her hair down the center, so naturally I am keeping it there. I usually do a little trick by pinching each front, side section to determine the depth of my money piece. Once I did that, I cleaned it up a bit, bringing the section all the way down through the sides. In addition to the sectioning the application also helped create a bold, but still natural face framing highlights.
I created this money piece technique so it starts off bold but transitions to a softer line of demarcation by incorporating teasy lights to finish off the section. I even added more teasy light highlights throughout the back to bring the face framing highlights and overall look together.
Tips for Creating Face Framing Highlights for Dark Hair
Use the right lightener for the project you’re doing. Just because she has dark hair does not mean you have to use the strongest lightener. I chose to use a more gentle and protective lightener because she not only had previously lightened hair on her ends, but she also has fine hair, meaning it will lifter pretty easily.
Make sure to use foil and do not open-air balayage if you are trying to get the most lift. I personally love using Framar foils. They stay in place and they come in fun colors too.
Be patient. Lightener takes time to lift and sometimes you will need to do more than one session. Make sure to explain that to your clients before you get started with any service.
You will find a full YouTube video tutorial for these face framing highlights along with the formula down below.
Full formula using @Kenra Professional
Beyond Bond Lightener 30vol
Glaze on Money Piece 7NA into Beige and VP Rapid Toner 9Vol
Glaze on the back 7N 9Vol
