Face framing on dark hair is one of my favorite things to do. I customize every brunette to what looks best on her, and bringing her vision to life never gets old. The contrast is gorgeous, and when you lift it clean, you can take that front section anywhere you want. Here are the best looks for brown and black hair, what they cost, how long they last, and how I place them so they grow out soft.

What are face framing highlights?

Face framing highlights are brighter pieces placed in the front sections of your hair, from your part down past your cheekbones. They are usually blended back into the rest of your color so there is no hard stripe. The goal is to put light where people look first: your face.

Face framing highlights vs a money piece

People use these words like they are the same thing. They are close, but not twins.

My favorite on dark hair is both: a bold start at the hairline that melts into softer face framing pieces. Bold, but natural. Want the bright version? See my money piece guide.

The best face framing highlights for dark hair

Subtle caramel face framing

Caramel pieces one to two shades lighter than your base. The most requested look on brunettes, because it brightens without screaming “I got highlights.” Grows out beautifully.

Honey and bronde face framing

Warm honey or bronde (brown plus blonde) pieces up front. Flattering on warm and olive skin and easy to keep fresh with a gloss.

Ash blonde face framing on brunette hair

A cooler, smoky blonde around the face. Gorgeous on fair and cool skin. Dark hair has a lot of warmth inside, so this one needs a strong toner and a little more upkeep.

Bold and chunky face framing on black hair

The high-contrast, Y2K look: thick, bright blonde pieces at the part on a black base. Black hair can lift to a clean blonde, but plan on more than one appointment. Healthy hair first, always. Love the bold stripes? See all the chunky highlights looks.

Copper face framing

Copper glows on brown and black hair and needs less lift than blonde, so it is kinder to your hair. See my face framing copper highlights for brown hair post.

Burgundy and red face framing

Rich wine and cherry tones around the face. A fun way to add color to dark hair with very little lightening.

Face framing with blended teasylights

My signature move from the video: a bolder piece at the front that fades into soft teasylights through the sides and back, so it never looks like a stripe.

Will face framing highlights suit me?

Almost always. Match the tone to your skin and the brightness to your lifestyle:

• Fair or cool skin: ash, beige or soft champagne.
• Warm or olive skin: caramel, honey and golden tones.
• Deep skin: rich caramel, copper or bronze.
• Low maintenance: stay one to three shades lighter than your base so the grow-out is soft.
• Want drama: go brighter at the hairline and blend back. Book touch-ups every 8 weeks or so.

Why dark hair turns orange (and how to avoid it)

Dark hair is full of warm pigment. When it lightens, it goes red, then orange, then yellow before it gets to blonde. That is normal, not a mistake. The trick is lifting far enough before you tone.

• Lift past orange. For a blonde face frame, the hair usually needs to reach a pale yellow before toning.
• Use foils. Foils hold heat and help dark hair lift more evenly than open-air painting.
• Go slow if needed. Very dark or previously colored hair may take two sessions. Your hair will thank you.
• Tone it right. A good toner cancels the warmth you don’t want and keeps the warmth you do.

Want to go deeper? Read my guide to bleach for dark hair.

How much do face framing highlights cost?

Most salons price face framing highlights as a mini or partial highlight, or as an add-on to a color service. It is usually less than a full highlight because it uses fewer foils. Price depends on your city, your stylist, and how far your dark hair needs to lift. Going from black to blonde usually takes more time, and sometimes a second visit. At Manelli Studios, face framing highlights start at $350, including the highlight, the toner and the styling.

How long do face framing highlights last?

The lightened hair stays light until it grows out. Most people come back every 8 to 12 weeks, and sooner if the front is very bright. A gloss every 6 weeks keeps the tone fresh.

• Use a purple or blue shampoo once a week on blonde or ash.
• Wash with cool water and a color-safe shampoo.
• Use heat protectant every time you style.

How to ask your stylist for face framing highlights

• Bring 2 or 3 photos you love, and one you don’t.
• Tell them how bright you want it: subtle glow or bold contrast.
• Show them your part and how you wear your hair most days.
• Ask how many sessions your dark hair will need to get there.

Can you do face framing highlights at home?

You can, but it is risky on dark hair. The front is the first thing people see, and box bleach on dark hair is the fastest way to end up orange or broken right at your face. If you try, use foils, keep the sections fine and even, and watch my full tutorial first.

For stylists: how I place face framing highlights on dark hair

This is the exact approach from the video. My client wanted bold face framing on her dark hair, but still natural. Bold, but natural. Got it.

1. Find the part first. She wears a center part, so that is where I placed it. Always place for how they actually wear it.
2. Pinch to find the depth. I pinch each front side section to see how deep the face frame should go, then clean up the section and bring it all the way down through the sides.
3. Start bold, finish soft. The first foils at the hairline are fuller and brighter. Then I switch to teasylights so the line of demarcation fades instead of stopping hard.
4. Carry it through the back. A few teasylights through the back tie the face frame into the whole look, so it doesn’t look like a separate service.
5. Use foil, not open air. Foil holds heat and gives you more lift on dark hair. Open-air balayage won’t get you there.
6. Choose the lightener for the hair, not the color. Dark hair does not always need your strongest lightener. Her ends were already lightened and her hair is fine, so I used a gentle, bond-protecting lightener. Fine hair lifts fast.
7. Be patient, and say it out loud. Some dark hair needs two sessions. Tell your client before you start.

Starting formula from the video (adjust for your client):

• Lightener: your favorite bond-protecting lightener with 30 volume, in foils
• Toner on the face frame: level 7 natural ash mixed with a beige toner, 9 volume
• Gloss on the back: level 7 natural, 9 volume

New to placement? Start with my guide to foil highlight placement.

I share every foil placement I use, including my full face framing placement step by step, inside Hair B&B University.

Watch the full tutorial

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Want face framing that looks expensive on every dark-haired client? Join the Dean’s List inside Hair B&B University. I share every foil placement I use, including my face framing and money piece placements, step by step. You also get 70+ video lessons on color and building your book, plus a live class with me every month. Join for the year and my Highlight Placement Blueprint is included. Join the Dean’s List

Face framing highlights FAQ